“The 60’s are over, the 70’s are over, the time to be groovy is NOW.” ~ Primo Mendoza
Working on a track with Desert Soap for an upcoming tribute to Craig Vincent Smith. We’ve got a pretty far-out version of Penny Arkade’s Sweet Country Girl ready to roll. You’re gonna dig it. Keep your ears on.
Photo by John Sturdy
Wednesday, November 14
Three Muses, New Orleans, LA
Many of us in New Orleans were confused about my presence there on that day.
Photograph by Wyatt McSpadden
Tuesday, November 13
The Family Wash, East Nashville, TN
Steve Stokes & I played a set after a jam band fronted by an Australian woman. Weird.
Photograph by Wyatt McSpadden
Monday, November 12
The Bluebird Cafe, Nashville, TN
Played How Far Would We Fall, among 35 other songwriters that night.
Photograph by Wyatt McSpadden
Sunday, November 11
Dino’s, East Nashville, TN
“You don’t want to play Dino’s, but you have to play Dino’s” - Matt Campbell
Photograph by Wyatt McSpadden
3713 miles over the last couple weeks. I was Number 21 at the Bluebird in Nashville, played at a boat landing/RV park in New Orleans, destroyed my merch case at the Triple Crown in San Marcos, played for the family in Amarillo, ran with some mafiosos in Kansas City and came back to Chicago to perform Willie’s Red Headed Stranger for a bunch of people who really just wanted to hear “Splish Splash.” It was a hard trip, but I had some fine traveling companions. My dad was along for the first half and SRW joined me for the second. Thanks to both of you for your time and patience. And thanks to everyone out there who made an effort to listen. See you next time.
Saturday, October 27, 2012
Branded Saloon, Brooklyn, NY
With Kevin Corcoran on piano & Patrick Penney on guitar
Friday, October 19, 2012
Southwest Airlines Flight 2539 – Las Vegas to El Paso
A few years back I met Tom Douple at an Empty Bottle gig. He is frequently in attendance, sitting way in the back of the room, at the corner of the bar. Tom owns a sure-fire honky tonk in McMahon, Texas called Whizzerville Hall. McMahon is not far from Austin, close to San Marcos, and even closer yet to Lockhart. Being close to Lockhart, he is a Texas BBQ enthusiast and we quickly became friends. He splits a lot of time between Texas and Chicago, and it always made me feel good that he considered the Hoyle Brothers gigs a way to stay connected to the kind of country music he heard in Texas. We booked the Hoyle Brothers at Whizzerville Hall a couple years ago and it’s a gig the boys & I still talk about (footage of which features prominently in our Heavy Hangs the Head video).
Earlier this year, Tom approached me about writing and recording a song for Whizzerville Hall. He had some ideas lyrically and some ambitions about getting the tune played around Central Texas. Whizzerville serves pizza, which isn’t on many roadhouse menus in Texas, and Tom had a hook: Texas Pizza Paradise. I had a tune in my head almost instantly and quickly got to work on the lyrics. The song bounced around for a couple months and I had a great time working on it. SRW deserves credit for the best line… “folks of every brand.” She and I spent a couple of fun afternoons tightening up the verses.
The Hoyle Brothers gathered over two days in August at Kingsize Audio and knocked out the track with John Abbey at the helm. He and I spent a couple of hours mixing it and now we’ve got a Whizzerville theme song! It sits right in the sweet spot between a jingle and a legitimate dance hall number. More than a few people have been caught humming the tune, long after the song is over. I’m mighty pleased with the results and would love for you to have a listen. Tom put the video together and it has a certain homemade charm. Watch out for the psychedelic bubbling pizza! A-haaa!
Click the photo to see more!
Friday, September 14, 2012
Cathedral Café, Little Village, Chicago, IL
I made it back to Chicago in one piece! I found it very difficult to get off the highway. I think Vanna White & I could have just kept cruising on down the road and we’d be very happy. But I’ve got to make my triumphant return to the Empty Bottle this afternoon… duty calls.
NYC was fantastic. I arrived on Tuesday afternoon at about 3 and found a spot to stash the van. Parking in Brooklyn wasn’t as difficult as I expected. I got a space on the street right behind the Way Station, so I was pretty much set for the gig. I walked down to the closest subway station and navigated my way to the World Trade Center site. Since it was Tuesday 9/11, I felt like I needed to go down there and spend some time.
I got off at Wall Street and walked west. It was quiet, despite the crowds. The atmosphere was reverent. By the time I reached the 9/11 memorial space, I was among countless firefighters and policemen. Some were on patrol and others were chatting with friends. The memorial site wasn’t open to the general public on this day, which was a little disappointing. I spent my time walking through the crowds, listening and watching. Families and friends of victims were easy to spot and many people reached out to them. It’s an odd area to be in because there’s an emotional weight that feels incongruent with the scenery, which essentially looks like a construction site. The new towers going up are impressive, but they don’t make up for the feeling of absence that pervades the whole area.
I walked north to Chinatown and Little Italy. Many of the streets were closed and filled with locals getting ready for an Italian festival. It looked like it was gonna be a big time for sure. I met up with a couple pals for a beer in the Financial District and we caught up for a while. It was getting to be close to 7 so I bailed… and skipped out on my part of the bill! Kevin, I owe you!
I hopped on the train back down to Brooklyn and made it back to the Way Station. My good pal Doug met me there and after I set up for the gig, we walked around the corner for a beer. We found a spot called Branded, which is a country bar. I kinda felt like I should be playing there instead. So, I’ve got a gig there on Saturday October 27. Yessir.
The Way Station proved to be a sweet spot despite my doubts. It’s a Dr. Who-themed bar with a steampunk sorta vibe. I was worried I’d get run out of there, but everyone was super cool and really dug the tunes. My brother’s friend Joe came out, and I’m very grateful for that! There were several folks in another room of the bar. They missed out on all the visual elements of my show, but when I took a break, they made sure to tell me how much they enjoyed listening. So it was a sweet gig. Doug & I drove the van up to his place in Astoria, found a parking spot there, and then spend some time staring at his 50-inch television set. Holy smokes!
I spent Wednesday kicking around Manhattan. I strolled Central Park, scoped out the babes in the Fashion District, ate lunch in a small park near Times Square, used the bathroom in Macy’s, checked my email at the Apple Store in Grand Central Station and discovered that the Cyclone roller coaster on Coney Island was closed that day. So I decided to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge. I made it across and laid on the grass in the park on the Brooklyn Side. I discovered a funky little theater there and went in for Killer Joe. I remarked sarcastically to SRW a few days earlier that I’d go see an “art film” in New York. Well, this was strange enough to qualify. I didn’t like the film too much, but it felt good to sit down for a while. Doug and I met up for a beer and then hit the Rodeo Bar to see a band that looked interesting. The food there sucked, but the band was cool. Susquehanna Industrial Tool & Die Company is the name I believe. Nice rockabilly stuff and their in-between song shtick was right up my alley. We headed back to Doug’s and stared at the TV for a bit longer. We got real wrapped up in a reality show about a muscle-bound Italian ex-cop who tracks down runaway kids in the boroughs around New York City. I would have thought it was all staged if I hadn’t seen about 40 dudes who looked and acted just like the main guy walking around Manhattan that day!
I got up about 6 am on Thursday and hit the road. Crossed the George Washington Bridge into New Jersey and spent a good part of the day driving west on I-80. New Jersey was unremarkable and Pennsylvania was endless. I got off the highway a few times looking for a decent cup of coffee and found it very difficult to find. This was a constant theme across the country… and not just in regards to coffee. In Middle America, it’s hard to find a bite to eat that doesn’t come from a fast food joint. I don’t fancy myself as someone who seeks out organic & sustainable foods, but I realized that it’s easy to take that sort of thing for granted in Chicago. Luckily, SRW had left me with a camp stove and some good coffee from a co-op in Montana. So, I made a pot of coffee at a rest stop. I had stopped at a food co-op in New London, CT, so I had some peanut butter and bread for a sandwich. Also some apples & bananas. All organic of course. So nevermind… I guess I do seek that crap out!
I crossed the Ohio state line and decided to take some smaller back roads into Cleveland. This proved to be a mistake as there was tons of construction and detours. But the delays weren’t as bad as witnessing the depressed towns on the way into Cleveland. Run-down and burnt-out garages, old boarded-up taverns, gas stations that closed when gas was $3 a gallon, piles of junk cars on the side of the road…. I was fascinated at first and then started to feel sad. And sometimes scared.
Soon enough the little county road turned into a four-lane highway and I was fighting traffic in the outskirts of Cleveland. I had two places to play there, so I went straight to downtown to find the second venue. Wilbert’s was right next to the baseball stadium in a cheesy section of bars. I had been warned about this place and it looked exactly as it was described to me. So I rolled on to the next venue and was cheered up immediately. The Barking Spider Tavern is an old carriage house, hidden away in the midst of sorority houses on the campus of Case-Western University. I used to have a lot of fans in the sorority community, so I was eager to see if any of them still cared.
Jenna runs the Barking Spider and she’s as sweet as can be. She helped me get set up and dialed in. The PA there is great and the room sounds wonderful. All the doors were open and several folks were drinking on the picnic tables outside. I was tuning and looked up to see my two good friends Liz & Randall walking in. They had driven all the way from Pittsburgh for the show! I’m so grateful to them for coming out. We drank a couple beers and caught up and then I kicked off the show. I guess the sororities had chapter meetings that evening cause it was a light crowd. But Liz & Randall were there so I gave it my all. We had a great time. I know them from my days in the Letters/X show and we tried to remember some songs that we did back then. I couldn’t get through any of them, but still laughed at the little bits we could remember.
So I wrapped up the show there, sold some merch, said my goodbyes and drove downtown to Wilbert’s. I found a good parking spot and rushed into the club. There were a few other singer-songwriters on the bill and I enjoyed their sets. But, truth be told, I was ready to keep driving west. The club was empty, I didn’t have a guarantee with the booker, and I didn’t know anyone there. I negotiated for a hamburger before my set and it was OK. I climbed up on the stage and did about 30 minutes. I was phoning it in for a while, but by the last few tunes, I was feeling pretty good. I had been closing the shows with “How Far Would We Fall,” and during that tune I got a little tingly thinking that it was the last song of the tour. So after a big ending, I packed up and bolted. Apologies to the other bands that night for not sticking around… I was eager to get on the highway and get home. I doubt any of us made any money, but if anyone from Wilbert’s has my cut, let me know!
I thought I could make it from Cleveland to Chicago that night, but I only drove an hour before pulling over. I guess it was about midnight when I folded down the bed in a rest stop parking lot. I went inside to brush my teeth and saw some hip indie rockers coming out of the bathroom. They climbed in to a Dodge Sprinter with a big trailer and I assumed they must be successful and famous. Knights of the road!
So I slept soundly for one last night in the van. I woke up and was pleased to find that this stop had an Einstein Brothers Bagels. I like their coffee, so I filled up my mug and hit the road. I passed by the exit for Sandusky and felt a strong pull to stop by Cedar Point for a roller coaster ride. Stuart, if you read this, we need to go there next summer damn it! The rest of the drive back into Chicago was pretty familiar. I passed through a little bit of rain crossing into Indiana, but otherwise the drive was just fine.
So now here I am… back in Chicago in my new neighborhood of Little Village. I parked the van and passed a group of Chicago teachers who are striking. I haven’t caught up on that yet, but it makes me think of my mom. I’m home safe, Mom.
I’ve showered up and I’m set to hit the Empty Bottle in a little bit. It’ll be good to join up with the Hoyles again and see the folks down there. But it felt great to be out on my own… These weeks have been very inspiring and getting back home doesn’t feel like an ending as much as a beginning. I’m anxious to keep working the road and looking forward to a return trip to NYC in October and a southern run in November.
Thanks to everyone… for coming to the gigs, for helping out on the road, for listening, for reading. I’ll see you next time… and keep your ears on… more tales to come.
Best,
Trev
Click the photo to see more!
Tuesday, September 11, 2012
Bean & Leaf Coffee Shop, New London, CT
Good morning from New London!
Many tales to tell today…
We left Burlington on Wednesday morning for another beautiful drive through the mountains. Vermont is a gorgeous state. We wound around the mountains, finding a small county road that paralleled a creek. We passed countless small towns, all with signs saying they were incorporated in the late-1700s. We didn’t stop at any of the cemeteries, but remarked several times about the ancient headstones. We stopped for lunch at a roadside café in one of these little villages and walked around the farmer’s market in the town square in another. I needed a new mic cable and so I asked a kid playing guitar on the sidewalk about a music shop. He directed me to West Lebanon, New Hampshire, so we got on the big highway and stopped at Blue Mountain Guitar.
Not long after, we rolled in to Newport, NH, for the show at the Salt Hill Pub. This joint is nice… a big two-story building that was probably a hardware store or pharmacy way back when. The performance area was on the second floor, so I had to drag all the gear up the back stairs. I got the full compliment of equipment out for this one… lights, backdrop, PA, and the smoke machine. It was a good show. Not a huge crowd, but enthusiastic. A lady was there just because she had seen my poster. It does work! I wanted to just pitch everything over the railing into the van after the gig, but I dragged it all back down and safely stowed it away.
While I played, SRW investigated some camping spots for the evening. She drove us up into a state park that was the most likely contender. We got out in the middle of the darkest woods I’ve ever been in. We hopped over a locked gate and walked into the camping area. The park was closed for the season. I got a super creepy vibe and felt like we’d certainly be attacked by the Blair Witch if we slept out there. We ran back to the van, drove down the mountain, and spent the night in a rest stop back in Vermont. We slept until almost 10:30 the next morning! When we unzipped the flaps on the van, the parking lot was full of families and old couples. We felt a little odd stumbling out in front of them all, but they seemed amused. It was a quick drive to the Dartmouth campus in Hanover, NH. We found free coffee on the street and ate at a nice diner downtown. I browsed the local guitar shop for a while. We walked through the college for a bit, trying to pick out students that resembled us back in our undergrad days.
Thursday was another great driving day back through the Vermont mountains. Lots of small country roads and quaint villages. The highlight was finding Lake Willoughby and getting in for a swim. This lake is tucked right into the mountains, with sheer rock faces dropping right down into the water. We found a beach, but I would have much preferred to jump in from a cliff. SRW got out the Dr Bronner’s and we cleaned up a bit and made our way over to West Glover for the show.
The Parker Pie Company is about the only thing in West Glover and I was questioning how I found this gig in the first place. But turned out half of northern Vermont was there. We were greeted by just about everybody at the place and all were eager for the show. Kevin is one of the owners and he made sure both of us were well taken care of. They’ve got a nice performance area and the room sounds great. Several families and couples ate pizza and listened, and most stayed for both sets. An older gentleman named Nick persuaded quite a few gals to dance with him, which pleased me to no end. It’s a huge compliment to have dancers in any situation, but for one guy & his guitar, it means something must be pretty groovy. Thanks, Nick.
Kevin invited SRW & I to park the van on his property not far away from the club. We found our way in the dark and parked off a dirt road. It was a bit scary, but we gathered our courage and walked through the dark back to Lake Parker. There were all sorts of eyes peeping from behind the trees and lots of strange noises from the bushes. We reached the lake and forgot about everything when we saw the moon over the water. A few porch lights shone in the silhouette of the mountains, but the moon glowed bright and we watched the reflections ripple back and forth across the lake.
First thing on Friday morning, we drove down to Jamie’s land on the lake and jumped in for a swim. Jamie is a buddy of Kevin’s and we were assured he’d be cool with us swimming there. Thanks guys… it was a fabulous way to start the day. An old couple walked by and the man said something about me swimming across the lake. I couldn’t tell if he was saying how cool it would be, or calling me a chicken for not trying. I was having too much fun swimming in circles, so I didn’t get out to question him.
After drying off, we grabbed coffee at the West Glover General Store and headed east to Portland, Maine. Several folks had recommended swimming holes and day hikes around the area, but we decided to kick it on in to Portland and hook up with SRW’s friends there. One of her good friends was getting married on Saturday, so we were eager to get to town and join the party.
The drive to Portland was nice. More New England hamlets and curvy roads. It felt short. I guess compared to the drives we made back in the West, everything on the East Coast feels close. We found a camping spot outside of town and the drove to the hotel where SRW’s friends were staying. Katia & Joel were kind enough to let us shower up in their room, and then we drove downtown to eat lobster.
I hated it. I may have tried lobster before, but I must have put it out of my mind. For the amount of work you put in to cracking the thing open, you don’t get much to eat. I was covered in lobster juice and pretty much worn out by the time dinner was over. The couple behind me got showered too. What I did get to eat tasted like the bottom of the ocean and I left craving a steak or some barbeque. Our waitress was a surly East Coast broad and I think she liked watching me suffer. But it was a fun time nonetheless.
So Friday night we drove back out to our campsite, built a fire against all odds (it had rained earlier in the evening and we had no kindling), and spent a nice night in our tent. We got up early and bolted for our hotel in Portland. It had been a few days in the van, so we couldn’t wait for a real hotel room. We cleaned up and dressed up and made it to Bridget & Joseph’s wedding by 1. It was a great ceremony and a fine reception. We ate and drank for hours and then retired to the hotel for an early evening break. The party started again in downtown Portland later that night. We kept at it until closing time and then sacked out until way late Sunday morning. So congratulations J & B! Thanks for having us!
SRW flew back to Chicago on Sunday afternoon, and so began the true solo portion of this tour. I found my way to the joint I was playing that evening. It was along the main drag in Portland, right by the bay. So I knocked around downtown until it was showtime.
Truthfully, it was an unremarkable venue & show. I think there were more people watching football than there were watching me. According to the bar staff, I missed the summer vacation tourist crowds by a week or two. I’ve heard that this whole tour. So, I slogged through a couple sets and hit the highway. The place did hook me up with a nice pizza and a hot cup of coffee for my drive, so it wasn’t all bad.
I drove down to New London, CT and crashed with my good buddy Dave. He and I shared a place in Chicago for a couple years. He moved back to New London recently so it worked out real nice to stop by. I pretty much went straight to bed when I got there but we had plenty of time to catch up on Monday. I did some laundry and cleaned out the van and then we went to get more seafood. I had a fish sandwich. I’ll be ready to get away from the coast… I don’t much care for seafood.
Dave’s buddy Jay and some of his pals threw a party on Monday night and we had a blast. Jay lined up a bunch of musicians to come over and play and it turned into a song swap around the fire pit. This was undoubtedly a highlight of the trip for me. We all traded songs for a good long while and I heard all sorts of good stuff… protest songs, fantasy metal tunes, a song about the end of the world, one about babies making babies, pop rock stuff, and two stand-up comics. It was all great. We moved inside when it got late and the party rolled on. I did a few more tunes and then we bailed. But I have a hunch the party’s still going! Thanks to Jay and all the folks there… I wish I remembered everyone’s name. Jay recorded it on a cassette tape… Send that to me if you can buddy!
So now it’s Tuesday morning and I’m set to roll into NYC for a show tonight. Thanks to Chris, Shin & Miles for putting me up for the last couple nights. New London has been great. Looking forward to hitting New York for a couple of days.
Over & out.
Trev
Click the photo to see more!
Wednesday, September 5, 2012
Burlington, Vermont
Greetings from the Muddy Waters coffee shop. The only coffee shop in North America without an internet connection. Retro!
SRW & I reached Montreal at about 10 on Monday night. We hadn’t done much advance planning for our stay there, so we ended up driving around aimlessly looking for a hotel. Most of the time, I prefer to roll into a city blind and find my way by instinct. But after a long day on the road, our patience for locating a decent place to stay was pretty thin. We checked in to a Days Inn and then hit the town, looking for beer and food. Saint Denis Avenue was packed with college kids, but we eventually found a bar where the mature intellectual types hang out.
The van (Vanna White) wouldn’t start Tuesday morning. Luckily, the valet boys at the hotel had a charging pack and they cranked us up. We drove around the city to charge the battery for a while, found a parking spot and walked the cobblestone streets of Old Montreal. My European experience is pretty limited, but Montreal felt like a city in Europe with more space. The buildings were spread out a bit more, the streets were a little wider and it was easier to park. Most everybody spoke French and I tried to communicate in broken Spanish with a French accent. SRW speaks fluent French, so she covered for me. She had a hard time with the Quebec accent, but we were able to order plenty crepes, coffee and croissants.
At about 3, we headed south to Vermont. No big issues at the border and we quickly found ourselves on Highway 2, winding along Lake Champlain. This was easily one of the more beautiful drives we’ve had on the trip… Mountains and lakes and sunshine and curvy highway.
By 6, we had found a campsite in Burlington and located the Radio Bean. I got set up and managed to wrangle a good sound out of their PA without any embarrassment. The set was good. After a slow start, the crowd was into the last half and I heard a lot of genuine applause.
After I broke down, a sure-fire honky tonk band set up and had the place swinging in no time. It was quite a surprise. This outfit plays every Tuesday and I’m not entirely sure of their name. Honky Tonk Tuesdays I think. They are all crack players… fiddle, twin Teles, piano, 3-part harmony, the works! I’ll admit to being skeptical, but they killed it. If you’re in Burlington on a Tuesday, it’s a must-see. Much like the Empty Bottle on Fridays, there’s a regular crowd of enthusiasts. None of them are as cool as the Hoyle fans, but they were nice nonetheless!
While the honky tonkers played, a huge rain storm rolled in. At their set break, SRW & I made a mad dash to the van, leaping across the overflowing gutters on the street. Our campsite was close to town so it was an easy drive home. We had plans of setting up the tent, but just stayed in the van. After a while, I started to worry that our van would get stuck in the mud since our site was at the bottom of a hill. We pulled out and found an RV pad and stayed the night there, worry-free.
Woke up this morning and dropped Vanna White for an oil change (3000+ miles so far!) and a new battery. And now here I am at the wifi-free coffee shop.
So far so good, dear readers. More coming your way soon.
Click the photo to see more!
Monday, September 3, 2012
Sudbury, Ontario, Canada
Happy Labor Day from Canada. They celebrate up here too. In the town of Blind River, they apparently celebrate with breakfast at Tim Horton’s drive-thru. The cars were lined up on the highway to get in there. For lack of another coffee shop, SRW & I went inside and people were falling all over each other to get some food. We made it out with our order and SRW was pleasantly surprised to find that the bacon on her breakfast sandwich was Canadian.
We’ve got a epic drive in front of us. We’re headed to Montreal for the night, which looks to be about 10 hours away. In front of us, there is another white EuroVan from Colorado. I really want to get them to pull over so we can compare notes. How are their brakes? Does their gas tank boil? We only have one working speaker in the van… How does theirs sound? How do you get the stove to work? It’s like dogs sniffing each other’s butts I guess.
Well sure enough, we pulled over for gas and so did the other van. Roy & Maggie were sweet as could be. Their van is super tricked out (I spied a toilet in there!). We exchanged contact info in case we ran into any further trouble with our van. Roy is an expert. That is his fourth VW. He showed off his telescoping ladder for getting on the roof and then we parted ways. Safe travels friends!
Let me catch you up… Friday night in Duluth was great. Fitger’s Brewhouse had a nice little stage and a good PA. I had to run the sound on my own, which made me a little nervous. I managed to get it going without any screeching feedback and got the thumbs up from the bar staff about the volume. Three folks sat down at a table in front of me and immediately began to request tunes. I hit most of them but mainly filled the set with my own stuff. Things can quickly fall apart for me when I let the drunks be in charge of the songs, but it seemed like we all felt right about the balance. Took a break and looked at the Bob Dylan exhibit in the hall… He was born in Duluth, but I guess he wasn’t in town since he didn’t come down to the show.
More folks came in for the second set and we all reached cruising altitude by midnight. Happy birthday again to Aaron, thanks to Holly for dancing, Donny for inviting us to shack up, Tymber for writing me a check that won’t bounce, and the waiter for buying his gal a extra-small tshirt.
We found a spot to park the van in a neighborhood next to a school and spent the night there. We woke up Saturday morning to the sounds of some local’s chainsaw. Thanks bud. Then the van wouldn’t start. SRW called AAA and we threw the frisbee in the schoolyard until Lee showed up. He had us fired up real quick, but we are gonna need a new battery soon.
After breakfast, we headed south to Neenah, Wisconsin. We rolled in about six and joined up with our good pals Jeremy & Judith at Judith’s sister’s house. We ate brats in the backyard, did a load of laundry and downed a few beers while watching the Michigan-Alabama game. Many thanks to Sarah, Kirk, Ella & Meg for a wonderful evening!
Saturday night, I joined up with The Hoyle Brothers for a gig at Cranky Pat’s. After all the solo gigs, it was real nice to get back in action with the band. The joint was kinda empty but the room was cool and sounded great. A couple pals from the Honky Tonk Twisters showed up, along with a bunch of J&J’s family. The highlight for me was having Jeremy up to sing Wagon Wheel. He killed it. I wish we would have recorded that one. It was so good, that I don’t need to play it anymore!
Jude’s parents Martha & Richard put us up for the night in a wonderful third-floor bedroom. We slept in and then joined the family for coffee on the front porch. Thanks M&R! You guys are great and you should probably expect us back soon!
We hit the road and ate lunch next to Lambeau field at Kroll’s. All was well until I saw that the meat on my Rueben had a rainbow-colored sheen. Since I’d eaten most of it, I finished the rest but it gave me the creeps. No rot-gut though, so I guess it was alright.
We drove hard out of Wisconsin, into the Upper Peninsula of Michigan as the sun set. We pulled over at a rest stop on the coast of Lake Michigan for a hummus and string cheese sandwich. The wind had the waves of the lake all whipped up and being in the forest at twilight made us feel like we were traveling through Middle Earth. I gathered our canteens and climbed the hill to a water fountain under a little pagoda. The water just shot strait up so I had to let the wind blow it into the jugs. I talked myself into a fantasy that it was a magic spring that would sustain us for the rest of the trip. I rambled on dramatically about it as we pulled out. There was a duplicate fountain on the other side of the park, and I immediately felt foolish. SRW exclaimed we had just passed the Twin Springs, and our journey continued.
On the highway, the moon rose in between the trees, glowing bright red. By that point, we were convinced a giant troll would soon flag us down with some sage advice about our trip.
We came back to our senses, and finally hit Canada about midnight. I left the gas cap to the van at a gas station on the American side. D’oh. The border crossing was easy. The guard had some pretty intense tattoos on his arms and gave us only a brief questioning. Not much farther into Ontario we gave up driving in Thessalon and slept at a nice little campground along St. Joseph Channel.
And now here we are back on the road. Just pulled off in North Bay to track down a gas cap. Since it’s a holiday, there aren’t too many options available. At a little mechanic shop off the highway, SRW asked a young gal working the register if they happened to have any extra gas caps around… Left behind by people like me. She couldn’t find one, so she called into the garage and a greasy guy appeared. He scoured the lot of junk cars and found one that fit. “You traveling?” he asked. I said yeah and asked how much we owed him. “Take it.” Thanks Blair. I won’t lose this one.
Good day dear readers. More from Montreal coming soon.
Friday, August 31, 2012
Brainerd, Minnesota
Howdy from Highway 10 in Minnesota.
We’ve got ourselves a fully-functioning van as of 1 pm today! Many thanks to Brent at STH Auto in Fargo. The boys down there fixed us up and assured us the van is in fine shape for the rest of the tour. He explained that a leaky coolant hose caused the boiling gas back in Montana. So we can now feel confident that we’re not gonna turn into an unstoppable rocket of burning guitars and PA gear.
Played the Cork & Cleaver in Fargo last night. I was pleased to discover it was an outdoor gig since it was a beautiful evening. I’m not sure the folks in Fargo fully appreciated the music, but I had a great time playing. The place is an old steakhouse with a small stage built into the patio. The tables kept getting filled up with this pizza-looking dish that seemed out of place at a steakhouse. After the show, I asked about it and it’s called Lavosh… And sure enough, it’s a pizza-type thing they made up there. Kind of a thin cracker crust with cheese and toppings. No tomato sauce. SRW & I ate a whole plate of it. It’s actually not very remarkable as a food item, but since crackers and cheese are about my favorite thing to eat, it’s high on my list of road food so far.
So we’re passing through Brainerd on the way to Duluth for a show tonight. Got a good feeling about this one. Should be a fun night. Adios amigos.
Click the photo to see more!
Wednesday, August 30, 2012
Billings, Montana
Woke up Tuesday morning, broke camp and headed back down to Livingston for breakfast. Knocked around Livingston for a while and then hit the road for East Rosebud Lake, near Roscoe, MT. SRW had spent many childhood summers at a cabin there, and she was excited to return. It was a rough ride up into the mountains with a wounded van. After bumping down the road for almost an hour, we smelled gas. I poked my head out the window and our gas tank sounded like it was boiling. We had a long way to go still, so we decided to keep going. To the west of our route, a huge forest fire was burning. We’d been watching the smoke for hours. We got pulled over by a cop who cautioned us that our route into the mountains might not be safe since the one way in & out passed right by the fire. And we’d been passed by several fast-moving fire trucks. So, we figured if our van was about to explode, there would at least be a firefighter close by.
We finally reached the cabin on Rosebud Lake and jumped out of the van. I grabbed my guitar and decided to let everything else burn if it was gonna go up. Tom and Sandy McIntosh greeted us and proved to be gracious hosts for the night. We spent the afternoon boating and fishing on the lake, playing on the front porch and enjoyed a wonderful supper off the grill. SRW & I let the sun go down and then wandered around the lake, discussing the fate of the Native American tribes of the area and how long we could last in a cabin during the winter.
We woke up early Wednesday morning, shared coffee and granola with Tom and then got on the trail up to Rainbow Lake. We hiked through the Custer National Forest along East Rosebud Creek, past Elk Lake, Rim Rock Lake and then up to Rainbow Lake. We tried to skinny dip, but that mountain water was too cold.
By about 4, we’d made it back down to the cabin and were cleaned up. We figured to hit the Grizzly Bar in Roscoe for steak and a beer before heading to Billings for the gig. Our way out was not quite as anxiety-filled as the way up since the fire had been put out. The small area of flames we saw the day before had turned into a whole valley of burnt earth. As we got closer to the paved road, more smoke blew over the valley and the helicopters flew in with baskets of water. The fire had come up again and the road to Roscoe was closed. We found another route, and still made it down with time for a steak. As we finished dinner, a reporter showed up, wondering if he could ask us some questions about the fire. We agreed, but not before changing into our Western Automatic Music t-shirts! Yessir. Check out our expert commentary right here.
We made it to Billings, which is a scary place. In front of the Railyard Ale House, a couple was screaming at each other as I got out of the van to set up my gear. The gal asked me for a light and I was gonna grab a lighter from the van. The guy looked at me with hard eyes and said, “You don’t have a lighter.” I agreed and went about unloading.
The Ale House was pretty empty, but the folks there proved to be enthusiastic about the show. Inevitably, some chick asked for Wagon Wheel, but she was countered by a skinny guy who instructed me to play an original. After a while, we all tried to figure out Rodeo by Garth Brooks but we didn’t quite get the whole tune. About that time an older couple walked in and made fast friends with SRW. Before to long, I took a break and the fella convinced me he should come up a play a few with me. He said the right things, and it turned out to be great. Jeff Anderson is a fine guitar picker and fiddle player… Many thanks for joining me buddy!
So, I shut it down in Billings and now we’re on the road to Fargo. We’ll pop the top on the van tonight and sleep in a rest stop somewhere on I90. Over & out.
Click the photo to see more!
Monday, August 27, 2012
Pine Creek campground outside Livingston, Montana
Woke up this morning and headed over to the Les Schwab in Missoula. I hadn’t heard of Les Schwab before, but it’s a pretty big chain of repair shops here in the Northwest. We explained to the fellas at this particular location what went down back in Portland and they did a bang-up job trying to help us get back on the road. Unfortunately, if we were gonna get any work done in Montana, it would be Thursday before the parts would arrive.
SRW & I retreated to a coffee shop to get online and find a repair shop that could do the work. We decided to look ahead along our route for some other options. We’d driven this far with only half our brakes, so we figured we could keep at it and get the work done later in the week. Sure enough, SRW got in touch with a shop in Fargo and they promised to fix all our problems. So we set out for Livingston.
I popped in the Kountry Korner along the way to make a brief appearance and another apology. I got the impression that the owner wasn’t too pleased about the no-show, but I was glad to have shown my face and make it known we did all we could to get there safely. Sorry again Bozeman… I owe you one.
After all that, I was glad to roll into Livingston and find the Murray Bar to be a super cool joint filled with country music lovers of all stripes. For a Monday night, folks were ready to have a good time and we all did. I was happy to finally be playing and made some good pals in the process. Many thanks to Keith for helping out with the sound, AJ for saying my guitar sounded like Pete Townshend’s, and to a tough-looking cowboy for not pounding me into the ground.
SRW & I have now retreated to the Pine Creek campground about 30 miles outside of town. It’s a beautiful night and we are sitting around the campfire trying to play Bob Dylan songs. Good night Montana… Glad to be here.
Click the photo to see more!
Sunday, August 26, 2012
Missoula, Montana
Well friends, the I’m Bad, I’m Nationwide Tour has gotten off to a rough start. I arrived in Portland, OR yesterday to find that the van I had lined up was in serious need of new rear brakes. SRW came to pick me up from the airport for some sightseeing. Each time we slowed down to avoid hitting a hipster, the van felt funny. After a cup of Stumptown Coffee, we decided to take the van back to the shop that had tuned it up the day before.
Apparently on Friday, Eric at the Les Schwab in Gresham, OR checked out the van and gave an enthusiastic approval of its roadworthiness. Yet on Saturday afternoon, the same place decided the rear brakes were shot. Since it was 5 on Saturday, getting parts or any work done wasn’t an option. After some deliberation and many phone calls, SRW & I decided to brave the drive across the mountains into Montana for the gig in Bozeman. It was slow going without any rear brakes and by Sunday afternoon, we realized there was no way I’d make it to the Kountry Korner for a 5:30 gig. There wasn’t any cell phone service in the mountains, but we found a lodge off the highway in Idaho that had a payphone. I called to alert the folks at the Kountry Korner that I wasn’t gonna make it.
I’d like to send my most sincere apologies to the people of Bozeman. I’ll be back to make it up to you one of these days!
So I’m holed up in the Bel Aire Motel in Missoula for the night. With some luck, we’ll track down the rear brake parts for the van tomorrow morning and be on our way to Livingston without any more trouble.